It's a Ducky Day for some Joao Pato (aka) Duckman Wine
“…Fermentation is one of the oldest symbols for human transformation. When grapes combine their juice and are closed up together for a time in a dark place, the results are spectacular…”
(Rumi)
This week's offer is focussed on one producer, Duckman from the Bairrada region of Portugal and one wine that I couldn't help throwing in because it's transformative- Menat, Ji Jian, a Qvevri (Georgian Amphora) fermented rosato wine from the Gaglioppo grape from Calabria, that sent me for a spin around the block of my little mind!
#1. Menat, Ji Jian, 2019 Gaglioppo Rosato, Calabria- $50 Menat! (go to this website...spectacular!). Menat is the project of Nicola & Michele, two friends making wine in San Nicola dell'Alto, in the Ionian district of Calabria. Their winery is styled around a traditional Georgian Marani. Everything is grown and produced according to Biodynamic principles, from the vine, to the wine, with no added sulfur. The color of this wine is what turned me on even before drinking it....simply amazing translucence with ruby and a stain of old blood. The nose and the palate: Solid full gas! This is not to say the wine is aggressive in any way- really, it is quiet and extremely present . . the solidfullgas element to this is what it inspires in me. The mind races, as only some wines can cause my mind to race; and shards of shattered glass burst vessels in my soul, sending me to archetypal memories of shared consciousness with mineral and plant. What that means is that I got a lot of cherry and stone; savor and salinity, with a long finish . . . whaaaaaatttttt!? SUPERUNFUCTWITH BADASSERY
Maria Pato (Pato is Portuguese for duck), is the grandaughter of Joaa Pato, namesake of the winery. The family has been making wine in Bairrada for over 200 years. Maria and her father, Luis produce wines of true terroir from indigenous varietals of Bairrada: Baga (their only red varietal), FernaoPires (Maria Gomes), Bical, Cerceal, and Sercialinho. DUCKMAN is their spirit animal, that lights up every label and title they make. The wines are spectacular expressions of this maritime influenced, cool climate zone, south and slightly east of Vinho Verde.
#2. Blahblahblah Rosato, 2020- $31 that is indeed the name of this cuvée which is produced from 100% Baga. As you can see in the pic, it begs the question, is it rosé or a light red wine? YES! it is! and the wine has grip! I don't know if you've tasted a full-macerated red wine from this grape, but it gets grippy and dark, and a bit bitter sometimes, in its fully red form. The Patos have taken a step back in the pressing, allowing some of the nuance to show through in this electric purple colored freshness, that still retains some of that grip! PERFECT transition-into-spring wine, where some of the security we crave in winter covers, woolen blankets and down comforters is retained, but clearly, buds are breaking, and springtime flowers are pushing their way through the hoar frost of winter.... (is there a better adjective than hoary to describe anything? it's like carbuncular, or horny, or qualudish ...)
#3 Vinho Branco, 2020- $23 Like its sibling to follow, in the photo, unfiltered and unfined wine of opacity! 85% Bical, 15% Fernao Pires- Aromatic with caramel apple and apricots. Don't let this wine fool you into thinking you're going to taste cider, because it looks like you are. You are not, and the richness on the palate, the opulence in its nose, brings forth a promise of dried leaves and baked apple. Sounds like cider, looks like cider, is not cider!
#4 "Duckling" Pet'Nat' -$30 100% Sercialinho. I love wines that ask us to re-interpret what our definition of wine is. That is why I wanted to include three cuvées from this one, special producer! Joao Pato produces wines that re-define the category: unfiltered white wines that continue to develop in-bottle, feeding upon matter that has not been filtered or fined to make the wine clear; red/rosé wines that beg the question of whether they are one or the other; sparkling wine that has even more particulate matter, unfiltered or fined, bottled with its own nutrients that allow it to continue to ferment and create that little bit of spritz that gives it a dancing lift to the palate, a celebratory element that is refreshing, lovely, and expressive! The Duckling is just one of several pet'nat's that Pato produces. Each one is unique with a voice unto itself! and I could have just featured those, but wanted to provide a spectrum for those of you who like to be on a spectrum.
That's the wrap for this week!
Contact me here with any question/orders: Cantina Sauvage
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6 bottles outside Seattle City limits
Much love,
Marc